Major League Duning - Installing an Electromotive Tec-II EFI Part 2

This is the wastegate, turbo and exhaust pipe with the oxygen sensor bung welded in place and the oxygen sensor installed. I could have purchased a manufactured bung to weld into the exhaust, but I found that a front spindle nut from an import car had the same threads and was cheaper.
The oxygen sensor and boost controller are visible here, as well as the wastegate exhaust pipe.
This is the 3" diameter U-bend I used as the exhaust pipe. This picture was taken before the oxygen sensor bung was welded into place and before the boost controller was added. The Electromotive Tec-II unit can be seen in the upper left hand side of the picture.
Another shot
This shows the exhaust manifold with wastegate and turbocharger before final positioning. The turbo compressor outlet had to be rotated down to clear the radiator and exhaust.
After the oil passes through the turbocharger it needs to be returned to the pan. I dropped the oil pan, drilled a hole in it and welded on a pipe thread bung, above the usual level of oil, and threaded on an AN adapter. -8 stainless hose and fittings are used for the drain.
Here's another shot of the C-line gated and baffled 7 quart oil pan with the turbo drain line attached. The aluminum radius rod in the foreground is a support for the turbocharger and is shown in the picture below. The radius rod in the background is the engine mount, it connects to the frame and suspends the engine.
There was no provision for an additional support for the turbocharger so I cut some 1/8" steel on the band saw to the shape of the turbo compressor clamp and welded a double-shear mounting point for the rod-end
I lightly lubed and then slid the injectors into place and installed the fuel rail from a turbo mustang with a boost referenced adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Unfortunately, I had fabbed the intake off of the engine and did not notice that the fuel pressure regulator interfered with the oil filter. I had to get a remote filter kit to locate it on the other side of the engine. As a quick note, before I tried to start the engine, I cranked it over with no spark to build oil pressure. There was NONE. It seems that the trusty company who made the remote mount for the filter has mis-labeled the intake and outlet ports and thanks to the check valve in the filter itself, no oil would flow. Quickly fixed by swapping oil lines, but ALWAYS check for oil pressure before starting an engine.
Here's the fuel inlet and return lines at the fuel rail. I flared the stock hard lines and hooked them to the braided hose for a leak-free connection and added a fuel pressure gauge.
The aluminum canister is the fuel pressure regulator and it has a braided line on the bottom that goes to the intake manifold so the fuel pressure is constant above boost. The braided line would clearly interfere with an oil filter and you can see the remote filter adapter and braided lines just below the fuel pressure regulator.
Looking down on the intake the fuel pressure gauge is visible and just above it in the image is the braided breather line going from the valve cover to the block and then up and around to a one-way valve in the exhaust pipe.
This is the throttle body and intake. I had to make an aluminum arm to connect the red morse throttle cable.
Top view of the engine. The oil feed line for the turbo crosses the valve cover.