Installing  the Electromotive EFI

Part 3

 

With the injectors and fuel rail installed, it is time to plumb the fuel pump, filter and return lines.  I took the 10" by 33" spun aluminum tank to Tatum Motorsports to have a bung welded to it for a return line.  They don't do anything half-assed over there, and I got the tank back with a small baffled sump welded to the bottom with an inlet and outlet port, and a new filler neck with screw-on cap and a breather vent.  It will totally prevent fuel starvation under the conditions found in the dunes.  Here's the Walbro 255lph fuel pump mounted to the frame with a Tatum clamp.
This is the Aeromotive fuel filter.  Most often these filters are mounted after the pump, but I wanted to be sure to catch any sand or other particles before they could damage the pume.  The return line is also visible in this shot. 
Moving on, at the suggestion of Mike, I made a frame out of 1 x 1 square tubing to mount the intercooler below the radiator. This is a picture of the funky bend I had to weld together to make the outlet of the intercooler hook up to the throttle body.
Just after the funky bend is the blow off valve.  This valve releases the pressure spike caused by quickly closing the throttle while under boost, saving the turbocharger. 
Looking up at the intercooler. Above it is the radiator.
This is a nifty little silicone adapter tube made by Turbonetics.  The throttle body's inside diameter is slightly larger than the tube, but its outside diameter is much larger.  A giant throttle body is not necessary and in some cases, like just off idle, can actually hurt drivablility.
Had to weld together some bends to mate the compressor outlet to the intercooler inlet, then paint them black.
Looking down on the exhaust side of the engine shows the crankcase evacuation one-way valve in the 3" exhaust pipe.  I hate messy crankcase breather boxes that leak oil, this way, any blow-by or other internal pressure is vented right into the exhaust after the turbo.  Just below is the remote filter mount.
The exhaust looked a little unfinished with a straight cut end, so I welded on this turn to give it that finished look
Now it is time to begin hooking up the various sensors and wiring the engine to the Tec-II.  The MAP, or manifold absolute pressure, sensor reads the pressure in the intake manifold and sends that information to the computer.  The Autometer electronic boost gauge also uses a MAP sensor so I made a mounting plate and hooked their vacuum hoses to barbs screwed into the 1/8" NPT tapped holes in the manifold.
The water temperature sender is mounted in a welded bung in the tube that carries hot water from the cylinder head to the radiator - just visible as the little brass thingy here to the left of the adjustable cam pulley under the radiator/intercooler.
Here's the Electromotive Tec-II unit. Lots of wires need to be connected to make it work.
This is another view of the unit. The coils are on top and all the inputs and outputs are along the two ends. This side has the power outputs to the injectors, tachometer, idiot light and an output that I am using to turn the radiator fans on at a specific temperature.
This side has all the sensor inputs: exhaust gas oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor, manifold pressure sensor, coolant temperature sensor, crank trigger wheel and the inputs for the computer cable for programming and monitoring of engine functions.
   
   

Electromotive Tec-II installation:

Part 1   Part 2   Part 4

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