With the injectors and fuel rail installed,
it is time to plumb the fuel pump, filter and return lines. I took
the 10" by 33" spun aluminum tank to Tatum Motorsports to have a bung
welded to it for a return line. They don't do anything half-assed
over there, and I got the tank back with a small baffled sump welded to
the bottom with an inlet and outlet port, and a new filler neck with
screw-on cap and a breather vent. It will totally prevent fuel
starvation under the conditions found in the dunes. Here's the
Walbro 255lph fuel pump mounted to the frame with a Tatum clamp. |
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This is the Aeromotive fuel filter.
Most often these filters are mounted after the pump, but I wanted to be
sure to catch any sand or other particles before they could damage the
pume. The return line is also visible in this shot. |
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Moving on, at the suggestion of Mike, I
made a frame out of 1 x 1 square tubing to mount the intercooler below the
radiator. This is a picture of the funky bend I had to weld together to
make the outlet of the intercooler hook up to the throttle body. |
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Just after the funky bend is the blow off
valve. This valve releases the pressure spike caused by quickly
closing the throttle while under boost, saving the turbocharger. |
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Looking up at the intercooler. Above it is
the radiator. |
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This is a nifty little silicone adapter
tube made by Turbonetics. The throttle body's inside diameter is
slightly larger than the tube, but its outside diameter is much larger.
A giant throttle body is not necessary and in some cases, like just off
idle, can actually hurt drivablility. |
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Had to weld together some bends to mate the
compressor outlet to the intercooler inlet, then paint them black. |
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Looking down on the exhaust side of the
engine shows the crankcase evacuation one-way valve in the 3" exhaust
pipe. I hate messy crankcase breather boxes that leak oil, this way,
any blow-by or other internal pressure is vented right into the exhaust
after the turbo. Just below is the remote filter mount. |
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The exhaust looked a little unfinished with
a straight cut end, so I welded on this turn to give it that finished look |
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Now it is time to begin hooking up the
various sensors and wiring the engine to the Tec-II. The MAP, or
manifold absolute pressure, sensor reads the pressure in the intake
manifold and sends that information to the computer. The Autometer
electronic boost gauge also uses a MAP sensor so I made a mounting plate
and hooked their vacuum hoses to barbs screwed into the 1/8" NPT tapped
holes in the manifold. |
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The water temperature sender is mounted in
a welded bung in the tube that carries hot water from the cylinder head to
the radiator - just visible as the little brass thingy here to the left of
the adjustable cam pulley under the radiator/intercooler. |
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Here's the Electromotive Tec-II unit. Lots
of
wires need to be connected to make it work. |
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This is another view of the unit. The coils
are on top and all the inputs and outputs are along the two ends. This
side has the power outputs to the injectors, tachometer, idiot light and
an output that I am using to turn the radiator fans on at a specific
temperature. |
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This side has all the sensor inputs:
exhaust gas oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor, manifold pressure
sensor, coolant temperature sensor, crank trigger wheel and the inputs for
the computer cable for programming and monitoring of engine functions. |
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